Spain: Almeria for Two Nights

 

The Alcazaba, closed on the day we were there, was a fortification built
by Arab rulers centuries ago. It dates to a 955 proclamation by the
caliphate in Cordoba ordering its construction.

 We planned the driving portion of our 2024 Spain trip, Valencia to Seville, to limit our driving times to about two hours.  In Southern Spain, where almost any historic or fortified or otherwise interesting town can be visited as a daytrip from another such town, it was easy to find worthwhile or semi-worthwhile places within two hours or less of each other. 

It took a little more than two hours to drive the 220 kilometers or 140 miles south from inland Murcia to the coastal town or Almeria, where we stayed two nights at Aire Hotel and Ancient Baths, and the next leg, to Granada, would be even quicker. 

We screwed up in Almeria. The town's main attraction, the Alcazaba, is closed on Mondays, the only day we could see it. The walled fortification dates to 955 and dominates this town of 200,000 people. So we spent a Monday strolling the city's ancient narrow streets and its more modern shaded boulevards. We ducked into a bookstore, found a few shelves of English-language books and Jane picked up a Donna Tartt novel.  We checked out the fruits, veggies and meats at the central market.

One unexpected sight in Almeria is the Cable Ingles or English Pier. It's also known as El Alquife, the name of the mining company that built it for transferring minerals mined near Granada to ships. This railway pier, built in 1904 by Scottish engineers (so why not the Scottish Pier?), was in use until 1973. It has since been designated as having cultural importance and is open to pedestrians. It provides nice views of the harbor and the town, including the Alcazaba. We made the walk to the end, stepping over rail tracks that haven't been used in 50 years. 

And we took the waters and had massages at the Aire in its labyrinth-like spa beneath arching brick ceilings. There are cool, warm and hot pools, plus a warm one so salty that bathers float effortlessly and can do little else. We met a pregnant American woman, living in Germany, who had come specifically to float in that pool, as she had done during a previous pregnancy four years ago. But the rules have changed and pregnant women can't use the pools at all. 

We had two evening meals, not really dinners, in Almeria.  The best was a series of tapas including grilled octopus at Taberna del Loco, a tavern a short walk from the Aire. The other was at Casa Puga, recommended by our hotel and packed with locals. When it opened at 8pm, we were part of a line of people competing for tables. We got one and had the same fried foods that everyone else seemed to relish. I would have been happier with Loco's octopus again. 

Here are some snapshots:

The Alcazaba as seen from a city street below it. The statue of Christ at 
left was added in 1928. The Alcazaba has been the site of filming for 
many motion pictures, including "Conan the Barbarian," "Indiana Jones
and the Last Crusade," "Never Say Never Again," and 1984's "Wonder
Woman." In the sixth season of "Game of Thrones," it is 
the capital of Dorne. 

The wall that connects the Alcazaba, out of the picture on the left, to the mirador or
 lookout on the right, is about all that's left of Almeria's medieval city walls.  

Another view of the outer walls of the Alcazaba.

The massive cathedral in Almeria is a short walk downhill from the Alcazaba.

With time to kill, we checked out the veggies
at the central market.

One of severat meat counters at the central market.

Avenida Frederico Garcia Lorca has traffic lanes on either side of
this park area that starts at the waterfront.

Another of Almeria's pleasant downtown streets.

A quiet street in the old quarter near our hotel.

The English Pier juts into the harbor where freighters once tied up to receive
loads of minerals from trains on the pier. It was in use until 1973.

A sign at the pedestrian entrance to the English Pier,
which is also known as El Alquife.

Like the High Line in New York City, the English Pier
once was used by trains. 

The view from the English Pier shows how the Alcazaba dominates the city.

A view of the harbor from the English Pier.

The small but popular dining room
at Casa Puga. Fried squid? 
This is the place.

The bar at Taberna del Loco. We had our evening
meal here one day and stopped back in for
drinks the next day.

The Zarro vermouth at Taberna del Loco is on tap. This is the
red vermouth, on ice and garnished with a piece of orange.