|Atlas bears the weight of the world on his shoulders. This is the first sculpture|
visitors see at the National Museum of Archaeology in Naples.
It turns out that Naples is worth more than one night. Its many narrow and boisterous streets invite you to walk further. Its restaurants and bars are constant temptations with prices considerably lower than those in Rome. And the archeological museum would require several visits to really see everything.
That's not to say there was no disappointment, though. We didn't like the pizzas we had here. The crusts were soggy in the middle and the edges were doughy and not thoroughly cooked. An innkeeper later in our trip explained that the center should be soggy: "If you pick up a piece and the pointed end doesn't droop, it is not a good pizza," he told us. Pizza is eaten here with a knife and fork, not by picking up the entire piece and biting into it. Pizza in Rome was more to my liking, as was pizza in Sicily.
|Via dei Tribunali is filled with university students|
and pizza restaurants.
|A narrow street off of Tribunali cuts|
through a building.
|Naples's archeological museum holds the best works from Pompeii and Herculaneum along|
with many works from the celebrated Farnese Collection, largely amassed by Pope Paul III.
|Since there's so much male nudity in ancient works, it's nice to see a different sort of fresco.|
|I can't imagine the process by which large mosaics such as this were moved from Pompeii and|
Herculaneum to be displayed in museums.
|This relief on the front of a sarcophagus depicts the myth of Prometheus and the creation of man.|
|Donatello intended this 1456-1466 bronze head of a horse as part|
of a gigantic work but he died without finishing it.
|"Kneeling Barbarian" is from the first|
century and uses two different marbles.
|"Hercules at Rest' is an early third-century Roman|
copy of a fourth-century B.C.E. Greek work.
|A teacher discusses "Hercules at Rest" as her students listen.|
|This bronze is the original faun from the House of the Faun|
in Pompeii. When we later went to Pompeii, I made sure to
see the replica that replaces it there.
|Before leaving Naples, we had time for a morning|
ride on one of the city's funicular railroads. It
took us up Montesanto.
|We ended up here for coffee near Castel Sant'Elmo, overlooking much of the city and|
the Bay of Naples. The shadow in the distance is Mount Vesuvius. In a few days
we'd see what it once did to Pompeii and Herculaneum.