Italy: Ancient Rome

Looking toward the Palatine Hill from the Forum. The Forum was the center of life
in Rome during the republican period as well as during the empire. Its basilicas
were the shopping malls of their day, and its temples sometimes did double duty
housing government administrators.

The Temple of Saturn
in the Forum also served
as the treasury for the
Roman Empire.

Rome isn't the oldest city in the world, but it may exceed all other cities in promoting its past and in making ancient ruins accessible. Where was Julius Caesar killed? Somewhere near Largo de Torre Argentina, where you can now see the ruins of three temples and Pompey's Theater. Where did Caesar Augustus live? You can see the ruins of his villa atop the Palatine Hill (the hill supposedly chosen by Romulus for founding the city; his brother, Remus, supposedly preferred the nearby Aventine Hill, now a residential neighborhood across the Circus Maximus from the Palatine). The Pantheon, the Colosseum and countless other sites let you touch ancient Rome.

During our six weeks in Rome during spring 2018, Jane and I never lost our fascination with the many reminders of a long-lost world. Our apartment, in a tiny neighborhood tucked between the Palatine and Capitoline Hills and the Forum, was a short walk from the Circus Maximus and only a slightly longer walk from the Colosseum. We could not have been more embedded in ancient Rome.

For the itinerary of our three-month visit to Italy, click HERE.

The Forum's Temple of Atonini and Faustina was saved when
it was converted for use as a Christian Church. 

The very old and the relatively new coexist in Rome.
Here the Colosseum is seen from a "modern" city
 street. You should know that the only new construction
allowed in central Rome since Mussolini 's time is the
 building protecting the Ara Pacis Augustae (Altar
of Augustan Peace).

The Ara Pacis, buried and forgotten for centuries, now is enshrined and protected
in its own small museum designed by the American architect Richard Meier. 

Faces of Roman Emperors stare back at museum visitors at Palazzo Massimo, which houses
Rome's greatest collection of classical period art.

"Boxer at Rest" is a bronze from the
second or first century B.C.E. He is still
wearing his boxing gloves (more like
brass knuckles) as he sits after
a fight. At Palazzo Massimo. 

The fourth-century C.E. Giana Quadrifronte Arch is surrounded by buildings centuries newer than it. Sit outside
at Anima Mundi, our favorite bar, and this is what you look at. It was built to provide shade for tradesmen and later
was used as a fish market. Its marble cladding has long been removed, along with the marble
busts that once filled its many niches. This was a block from our Airbnb apartment.

History in Rome is often found in layers. This is a second-century C.E. temple to Mithras,
a Persian god at the center of a male-only cult that was a rival to early Christianity. In the
center is an altar and on the sides are stone "couches" where worshipers would
recline. This temple, one of hundreds that once existed in the city, was in a private
home. Around the fourth century, as Christianity was on the rise, a church, the
Basilica of St.Clement, was built above the house. In the 12th century, the basilica was
in bad repair and unstable; it was filled in with rubble and a new Basilica of St. Clement
was built above it. Today, you can go into the 12th-century church (modified and redecorated
over the centuries), and descend into the excavated 4th-century church, where frescos and an altar
still exist. Descend further, and you're in the similarly excavated private home, again with some
decorative elements remaining, and on your way to the Mithraeum.

                                            

Italy: Three months, Rome to Palermo

A hallway in the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj in Rome. It is still home to family members;  the audio tour
is narrated by a man who grew up in the palace. We wonder if it was his Porsche that was parked in a
ground-floor area of the palace. 

All leisure travel is a splurge, whether it’s a weekend at a country B and B or a grand tour of European capitals. In 2018, Jane and I took our splurging to a new level: three months in Italy. We closed up our apartment in San Diego, turning off the refrigerator and suspending our TV/Internet service to cut costs. Then, early on April 17, we were off.

We started in Rome, renting an apartment through Airbnb for six weeks. During this time we visited every church of any significance except for St. Peter’s Basilica, which we had seen on a previous visit, and we toured palaces and hit many museums, including the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel. We used our two-bedroom apartment (literally steps from the Forum, the Palatine Hill and the Circus Maximus) to host friends from Colorado as well as Jane’s sister from New York and her daughter.

After Rome, we headed south, eventually picking up a rental car that took us as far as Palermo, Sicily. We stopped in several places along the Adriatic Coast and along the instep of Italy’s boot. Here’s an outline of our trip:

Tuesday, April 17: Fly from San Diego to Rome, leaving at 6:25 a.m. and connecting through Dallas/Fort Worth.  Arriving in Rome at 7:15 a.m. on April 18.

Wednesday, April 18: Breakfast in Rome and then meet an Airbnb person at our apartment on Via Dei Fienili.  We are at first disappointed by the condition of the apartment, especially the furnishings, but the Airbnb guy contacts the owner’s representative who makes everything OK – she even got us a new Ikea sofa and end tables.

Tuesday, April 24: Before leaving the U.S., we bought tickets to see an abridged performance of “Rigaletto” at the Stadium of Domitian. 8:30 p.m.  The “stadium” is in the underground ruins of a Roman sports venue; the iconic Piazza Navona was built above it. Four singers and several arias did not tell the opera’s entire story, but it was a pleasant evening in a unique setting.

Saturday, May 12:  Our Colorado friends Mary and Dick arrive late morning bearing tickets for a football (soccer) match the next day.

Sunday, May 13:  We all watched Roma and Juventus of Turin play to a 0-0 tie at Stadio Olimpico. The crowd was as entertaining as the game. The other highlight of their visit was a day in Tivoli and touring the Villa d'Este and Hadrian's Villa.

The most spectacular of many fountains at the 17th-century Villa d'Este in Tivoli.

Sunday, May 20:  Friends leave very early, a few hours before our other guests, Debby and Sharon, arrive. During their stay we toured the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel and had a guided tour of the Borghese Gallery. 

Wednesday, May 30:  We take a train to Naples, where we stay at Hotel Piazza Bellini, Piazza Carita 32. (Click HERE for hotel.) On a previous visit to Italy, we took a train to Naples and immediately picked up a rental car and headed to Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. This time we wanted to see the city's famous archeological museum and try pizza in the city where it was invented. The museum was great; the pizza wasn't. But we both wished we had another day to explore the city.

The view from our hotel balcony in Capri
included a public beach and the marina
where the ferry from Naples lands.

Thursday, May 31:  Ferry to Capri, leaving from Molo Beverello, the port adjacent to Piazza Municipio.  Three nights on Capri at Capri Inn, Via Marina Grande 222 (click HERE).  At the ferry dock in Capri, we skillfully negotiated a 12-euro fare with the driver of one of  Capri’s unique open-air taxis to take us to our inn. He was all smiles a block later when he dropped us off at the door.  Capri is basically the top of an otherwise undersea mountain.  A funicular railroad or those open-air taxis or tiny, very narrow buses take people up to the town of Capri, which is full of Prada and other super high-end shops, expensive hotels and expensive and not so expensive restaurants. We were eating at one and the owner told us that Adam Sandler had sat at our table recently. We saw no celebrities. From there, you can take the bus or a taxi further up the mountain to Anacapri, a smaller town without Prada shops. It has a chairlift that will take you to the very top of the mountain, from which you can see 360 degrees of sea around the island, the city of Naples in the east and the Sorrento Peninsula to the southeast.  Our inn was the first of several we stayed at in which the inn is merely a floor or even part of a floor in a larger building that may also house another inn, private apartments or businesses. Our room had a balcony looking down at a public beach, the harbor and the open sea.

Sunday, June 3: Ferry to Naples and taxi to airport to pick up our rental car. (We used Hertz because I’d read that, unlike most rental car agencies in Europe, it didn’t tack on added fees. The price you get when you make a reservation is the price you pay when you return the car. That was the case for us, a nice change from recent rental car experiences in Portugal, Mexico and France. )  We drove right away to Pompeii and stayed three nights at La Casa de Plinio, Via Stabiana 3  (click HERE). We spent one day exploring the ruins of ancient Pompeii , one day exploring nearby Herculaneum (the two sites are much more different than one would expect), and every evening finding a new place for dinner amid Pompeii’s new restaurant scene. We were there years ago (1999?) and there was maybe one decent place for dinner. It’s a whole new scene now.

Wednesday, June 6: Drive to Trani, about two and a half hours away on the Adriatic on the other side of the country.  Stay four nights at La Bella Trani, Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo 168 (click HERE). The B&B is on a public beach, making for a lively scene as well as easy access to sand and surprisingly warm water. We were about a half-hour walk from the center of town, where we went for drinks and passegiata-watching and for dinner. We didn’t visit the cathedral or castle in town, but we did drive an hour or so to visit the unique Castel del  Monte, an octagonal medieval  fortress with octagonal towers.

Trulli in Alberobello.

Sunday, June 10: Drive to Alberobello.  Stay four nights at Palazzo Scotto, Corso Trieste e Trento 30 (click HERE). Alberobello is famous for its trulli, dome-shaped houses built originally of dry-stacked flat stones.  We stayed one night here in an over-the-top but small room with a queen-size bed that appeared to float above a glass floor with lighted stones beneath. The next three nights we were in an attached trullo with a good bit more space. The Central Bar in Alberobello is the place for watching the passegiata, the traditional evening stroll before dinner: stylish couples, young people in shredded jeans, elderly women with their mothers on their arms, children kicking footballs (soccer balls) as they walk alongside a parent, lots of handshaking and air-kissing.  Short drives through trulli-studded hills took us to the ancient towns of Ostuni, Ceglie Messapica, Polignano a Mare and Monopoli, the latter two with picturesque ports and beaches.

The beach at Polignano a Mare.

Thursday, June 14: Drive to Lecce and Palazzo Bignami, Via Lombardia 6 (click HERE). Lecce is deservedly celebrated for its Baroque architecture in its historic city center, which is well worth a day.  And from Lecce, we could easily drive to two seaside towns on different coasts, Otranto and Gallipoli, each with fantasy-inspiring castles and their own historic districts of narrow stone-paved lanes.

Sunday, June 17: Drive to Matera. Spend two nights at Il Palazotto Residence and Winery, Via Sette Dolori 39 (click HERE). This is a town where people live in caves, hotels put guests in caves and where restaurants are often in caves. Very unlike the perhaps more famous cave districts in Cappadocia, Turkey, in that it’s pretty much all in one huge, easily carved mountain, and that it seamlessly abuts a modern city with asphalt streets, sidewalks and conventional buildings. We met people who were staying here four and five nights, but we had given ourselves only two.

Tuesday, June 19: Drive about five hours to Maratea.  Stay two nights at Hotel Villa delle Meraviglie, C.da Ogliastro (click HERE). This is a seaside area. Our hotel (the name means House of Wonders) has a nice pool and many, many, many steps down to a very rocky and forbidding shore. There are lidos (beach resorts where you can rent beach lounges, umbrellas and towels and have easy access to a bar and café) nearby with sandy beaches.  

The pool at Blu Infinito. In
the distance is the northeastern
tip of Sicily.

Thursday, June 21: Drive about three hours to Villa San Giovanni. Spend one night at Blu Infinito B&B, Via Petrello 85, Localita Santa Trada (click HERE).  Villa San Giovanni is a gritty little town and there’s little reason to visit except that it’s where we could put the car on a ferry to go to Sicily. Blu Infinito, high on a hill, had views across the Strait of Messina to the northeast tip of Sicily, and a stunning infinity swimming pool that gave the impression one could swim or fly out of it all the way to Sicily. Unfortunately, the water, at about 68 degrees Fahrenheit, was too cold for us.

Friday, June 22:  Take car on a morning ferry from Villa San Giovanni to Messina to be in time to see the Duomo’s bell tower clock strike noon (well worth the search for a parking place).  The tower’s mechanical lion roars, its rooster crows, a “city of God” rises against darkness, and other marvels take place.  Then we drove to Taormina, a resort town not unlike Capri but a tiny bit lower on the economic scale.  We took a scary bus ride up the mountain to the village of Castelmola and we took a cable car down the mountain to the beach. We stayed at Maison d’Art Casa Arico, Via Silipigni 11 (click HERE).

Monday, June 25:  Drive to Catania.  Stay three nights at B&B Sciara Larmisi, Piazza Mario Cutelli 3 (click HERE). Catania has a reputation as a somewhat gritty city. It’s the second-largest in Sicily and has an active port, but it also has beautiful churches, plazas, a long pedestrian-only street, and a large, beautiful and much-used park. We enjoyed Catania very much, and at least partly because it is not filled with tourists. Of all the bars on the mainland and in Sicily where we had aperitivos, Catania was the place where bars gave the most elaborate “no extra charge” snacks: fried rice balls, hams, salami, cheeses, cucumbers, etc.   

Thursday, June 28:  Drive to Siracusa.  Stay three nights at Charme Hotel Henry's House, Via Castello Maniace 68 (click HERE). The historic “center” of Siracusa is Ortygia, an island at the tip of the city. You can walk the perimeter of the island in an hour or so, and on the way look down at public beaches below the seawall. There’s a lively fish and produce market with places to buy plates of ham and cheese and smoked fish. Siracusa is perhaps better known in the U.S. as Syracuse, founded about three thousand years ago by Phoenicians. It later came under the sway of Greek cities, Rome, Arabs and various European kingdoms.  All are reflected in Ortygia’s architectural stew – and at the archaeological park on the mainland, which has a theater built by Greeks (and where Aeschylus himself put on two of his tragedies), an amphitheater built by Romans, the remains of the largest altar to Zeus ever built, and other ruins.  

The 440 B.C.E. Temple of Concordia in the Valley of the
Temples at Agrigento. This is the view from the Hotel Villa
Athena, which has a private entrance to the archeological
park.

Sunday, July 1:  Drive to Agrigento for three nights at Villa Athena, Via Passeggiata Archeologica 33 (click HERE). The attraction here is the Valley of the Temples, a collection of Greek temples dating to 500 B.C.E. or so. One, the Temple of Concordia, is considered the best-preserved Greek temple anywhere, more complete than any on the Acropolis in Athens.  For several centuries, it was used as a Christian church, which meant that it was not used as a source of stone for other buildings. In the 1800s, as Italy was rediscovering its past, the Christian elements were removed, leaving the original temple in amazing condition. Out hotel was about 300 meters from Concordia with a direct view from the swimming pool, bar and restaurant. It is dramatically lighted at night. From our hotel, we could walk to the temples or go the other way to the town’s archaeological museum, which does a fantastic job of explaining the temples, especially the one most in ruins, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which was unlike any other Greek temple anywhere. It’s a five-minute drive to San Leone, a beachfront town with sandy beaches and inexpensive lidos.

Wednesday, July 4: Drive to Marsala. Stay three nights at Hotel Carmine, Piazza Carmine 16 (click HERE). We've never been fans of Marsala wine; it's too much like Madeira without being as good as Madeira. But we thought that, as in Porto, Portugal, a town known for its fortified wines would also be good for unfortified wines. We found what we were looking for about an hour out of town at Gorghi Tondi, which does not make any fortified wines but does use the popular grillo grape to make an excellent dessert wine using botrytis, the same "noble rot" used in France to make sauternes. Its standard grillo and its several reds are also very good.

View from the roof of Santa Caterina
d'Alessandria in Palermo.

Saturday, July 7:  Drive to Palermo. Stay three nights at Palco Rooms and Suites, Via Camillo Cavour 118 (click HERE). We returned the rental car as soon as we had dropped our luggage at Palco, another B and B on one floor of a large building. Palermo is a crowded, busy and lively city. The drivers are as foolishly aggressive as those in Rome, but from our hotel we could walk to many major attractions, to excellent restaurants, to the harbor and even to a beachfront bar. It was very hot and humid during our stay, but I bet in mid-spring or mid-fall, Palermo would be very pleasant.

Tuesday, July 10:  Fly Palermo to Rome on Alitalia, a one-hour flight. Alitalia is not a pleasant experience, especially boarding; people seated in the rear put their bags in the overhead bins at the front of the plane. Several people seated toward the front who boarded late had to put their bags in bins at the rear, meaning they had to wait for everyone to get off before they could retrieve their bags, and the flight attendants had no problem with this, happily watching people fill the forward bins first. And, although there are “boarding zones” on the boarding passes, they weren’t called. It was a mad rush to board with a mob where there should have been a line.  Once in Rome, we stayed two nights at the Hotel Stendahl on Via Tritone (click HERE), convenient to the Monti, Spanish Steps and Borghese areas.

Thursday, July 12: Fly Rome to San Diego. Leave Fiumcino Rome at 11:40 a.m., transit at Heathrow and arrive in San Diego at 6:45 p.m.

Telephone

At home, Jane and I each use a Samsung smart phone from Verizon. The phones are locked, so we can’t simply insert a foreign SIM card. Our Verizon plan lets us use those phones abroad for 24 hours for $10. Since we would need a phone almost daily, it was cheaper for us to buy an Italian smart phone. We spent 150 euros for a Vodaphone smart phone including three months of service within Italy. We couldn’t use it to call the U.S., but we could use it to make restaurant reservations, etc., and to use GPS when we were driving. We used our U.S. phones for taking pictures, posting on Instagram and Facebook (using wifi, which is available almost everywhere; Palermo seems to have free citywide wifi), and calling the U.S. using Whatsapp.  When we got home, I took the battery out and stored the phone in hope of using it again on our next trip abroad. All I would have to do is get a country-specific SIM card.

Music

I had never thought of Rome as a destination for music, but it is. Many churches, such as the gigantic St. Agnes in Agony in Piazza Navona, and some palaces offer operatic music in the evenings. We heard “favorite arias” well performed at such venues. Usually a tenor, a soprano and maybe a baritone, accompanied only by a piano or perhaps by a string quartet.  Admission was between 10 and 20 euros.

We also found more jazz than in most U.S. cities. We went several times to Charity Café in the Monti neighborhood (click HERE for website) and to Gregory’s near the Spanish Steps (click HERE).  It was either a one-drink minimum or a small cover that included one drink.  The music was first-rate, especially our last night in Rome when there was an open jam at Charity. Heard a Roman singer do a good job with Nina Simone’s “Feeling Good (It’s a New Day),” the song to which I walked my daughter down the aisle at her wedding.

Dancing in the moonlight: Tango enthusiasts meet
at the cathedral plaza in Catania on a Monday evening.

The music was recorded one Monday night at the main piazza in Catania, Sicily, and it was tango music. Couples did their complicated footwork as they clung to each other and swirled in the plaza between the city cathedral and a large fountain. It was an almost surreal scene that we happened onto by chance. Most of the women were dancing in high heels and were not dancing with a “date.” It seems the plaza attracts men and women who like to dance and they partner-up once they’re there and then change partners during the evening.

It was live music one night in Siracusa, Sicily, again in front of a cathedral. The city band (a city band!) performed the overture from “William Tell” and other familiar pieces.  In what I saw as a political comment in a country that had just installed an anti-immigrant government, the band played “We Are the World,” with many people (I guessed an audience to be about 300 locals and tourists) singing along. Toddlers were set free to dance and hop around in an open space at the foot of the cathedral steps.

Los Angeles: On Foot in La La Land

     

"Urban Light" by Chris Burden in the entrance plaza of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 

  Los Angeles is an easy train ride from our home in San Diego, so one Sunday Jane and I walked to the Amtrak station a couple of blocks from our home and hopped the Surf Liner to Los Angeles. Once there, we relied on Lyft to take us to our hotel, the Sofitel on Beverly Avenue (click HERE), which may be in Beverly Hills but it's not Jed Clampett's old neighborhood.  There were a Target and a Marshalls nearby and the Beverly Center mall, complete with a Macy's and a Bloomingdale's directly across the street. 

     We weren't here to shop, though. We particularly wanted to see LACMA (the Los Angeles County Museum of Art) and La Brea Tar Pits, and we wanted to simply experience the city a bit, but without the main element of almost any L.A. experience -- a car.

     From the Sofitel we could walk to the museum district, about a half-hour away on Wilshire Boulevard, where we  found the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (click HERE), La Brea Tar Pits (click HERE), and the Petersen Automotive Museum (click HERE).  At some point in the future they'll be joined by the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures (click HERE), which is building a Smithsonian-size structure at the corner of Fairfax and Wilshire, just across from the Petersen. There's at least one other major art museum in L.A., the Getty Center, which we visited a decade ago. At the time we thought the building was much more interesting than the art it housed. We have been told that LACMA is actually the much better museum; we didn't revisit the Getty. 

     LACMA is a campus of several different buildings and sculpture gardens and plazas adjacent to La Brea Tar Pits. It probably has more works by Picasso and Leger and Giocometti than most people have seen, though not necessarily those artists' best or most interesting works. Jane and I agreed on a favorite: "Metropolis II" by the late Chris Burden -- a roaring kinetic sculpture simulating a fast-paced, car-driven city, like Los Angeles.  Small cars race along curving and intertwining roadways as trains snake along on tracks. 

     La Brea Tar Pits gives visitors a chance to see first-hand the process of recovering and cleaning and cataloging bones from animals that died tens of thousands of years ago.  Don't skip the 3D movie about the animals of the Ice Age. I think this would be a great place for elementary-school-age kids.

    Petersen Automotive Museum is not the sort of encyclopedic car museum that I was hoping to see. It's a random collection of movie cars, custom and concept cars, motorcycles and a few as-they-were production vehicles. I was disappointed that there were no Packards, Kaisers and especially Studebakers on display. 

    Aside from the museums, we wondered along the stars on Hollywood Boulevard. We walked more than nine miles on our one full day in L.A., going on foot to the museums from our hotel, then a Lyft to Hollywood Boulevard, and then another long walk back to the hotel.  (We also walked roundtrip between LACMA and our hotel on the afternoon we arrived.) We walked along major thoroughfares like La Cienga and San Vincente, through shopping areas like Melrose Avenue, and on quiet tree-lined streets with two-story apartment buildings and single-family homes. Turns out that sprawling L.A. can be surprisingly walkable. 

     And when we got hungry, we found very good places to eat and drink, mostly near our hotel:

• We had lunch when we arrived at Granville (click HERE), just a few steps along Beverly Boulevard from the Sofitel.
• Dinner that night was at a posh Vietnamese-themed place called The District (click HERE).
• Breakfast the next morning was at Joan's on Third (click HERE).
• At lunch time we were on Hollywood Boulevard and we stumbled upon a modest, inexpensive and good Chinese place called Oriental Bistro (click HERE).
• Our second and last dinner was at a Peruvian restaurant, Rosaline (click HERE), where we enjoyed Pisco sours and beef heart skewers.
•  The next morning, before getting on the train home, we had breakfast at the iconic Norms on La Cienega (click HERE), proof that breakfast is better in an original 1950s diner.

Below are some snapshots from the trip.

Chris Burden's "Urban Light" during the day, before the lights are turned on.
We visited the museum area twice, touring LACMA the afternoon after
we got into town, and visiting La Brea Tar Pits and the Petersen
museum the morning of the next day. All three could easily fill
an entire (and tiring) day.

Picasso's "Centaur." 

Matchbox cars appear as blurs as they race along the streets of "Metropolis II" by Chris Burden.
They collect at the bottom of the sculpture before being raised by conveyer belts (visible at upper left)
 to the top where they start their downward trips again.

Another view of "Metropolis II." Note the orange-haired attendant in the middle of it all. I assume
her or his job is to help out if a traffic jam brings everything to a halt. Click on the photo and you'll
be able to enlarge it to look more closely at this amazing work.

The Tar Pits entrance is just down Wilshire from LACMA.

There's a lot of ivory in those tusks.

A sign at one of the actual tar pits shows what has been found there. Click on the image to be able
to enlarge it for easier reading. 

A sabre-toothed cat skull (the museum doesn't call them tigers).

The Petersen Automotive Museum has a lot of curb appeal.

1957 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz.

1947 Cisitalia 202 coupe from Italy. Note the right-hand drive. Did Italy once have left-side driving, or
was this car made for the British market? 

A 1948 Davis Divan, a Los Angeles-made three-wheeled vehicle with an airplane-inspired design.
 Only 16 of these cars were built.

One of two driveable 1958 Plymouth Furys that were used in the
 movie "Christine." Also visible here are a "Love Bug" Volkswagen
and, beyond it, the red Ferrari used in "Magnum P.I." 

The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures under construction. 

Stars sign their names and leave hand prints and sometimes
shoe prints in cement in the courtyard of Grauman's
Chinese Theatre on Hollywood Boulevard. The famous
brass-outlined stars dedicated to scores of celebrities are
in the sidewalks on either side of Hollywood Boulevard.

San Diego: A Harbor Tour

 

The Coronado Bridge curves 80 degrees as it nears Coronado, an island-like community that
boasts more retired admirals than any other community in the country and where the
average home price is reported to be $1.4 million. 

  San Diego Bay is a 12-mile-long J-shaped mix of military ships and bases, sports and commercial fishing boats, yachts, tour boats and sailboats.  On Dec. 23, Jane and I joined the other goobers aboard the Admiral Hornblower, one of several boats that take tourists out from the Embarcadero near our apartment building, for a two-hour cruise of the southern and northern portions of the bay.
     The Coronado Bridge is the line between the southern closed end of the bay and the northern bay, which opens onto the Pacific Ocean at Point Loma. The bay is formed by the Coronado and the Point Loma peninsulas. The bridge is just over two miles long, a length achieved by its curved design, a curve needed to make it long enough to qualify for federal funding back when Ronald Reagan was governor of California. (That's when he saw government as the solution, not the problem.)
       Below are snapshots from our tour.

Our tour boat's dock is near the USS Midway. These cars are parked on a dock. The entrance, above,
is actually in the side of the ship. 

 

U.S. Navy ships dominate most of the southern part of the bay, where some of
them are built or repaired or updated. The drafts on the ships are
as deep as 40 feet and as shallow as 15. 

Another view of the Midway and its parking lot. 

The Midway as seen from the southwest with the waterfront skyline in the background. 

This is the boat we were on.

Even on a chilly winter day (temperatures in the 60s), people were out sailing on the bay.

That's part of the commercial fishing fleet at left, and the
Coronado Bridge in the background. It's tall enough
for aircraft carriers to pass beneath it. 

Sail boats and military ships co-exist peacefully.

In the center is a Navy ship under construction. At right is a tri-hull Navy ship in a dry dock.

Another Navy ship in dry dock.

There are too many ships to count and too many types of ships to keep track of, though the tour
narrator told us what many of these ships are.

A research ship operated by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric
Administration. They help with the research on global warming.

Catamarans are common here. 

The battered-looking commercial fishing fleet keeps San Diego restaurants supplied with fresh
seafood. There's also a public fish market on Saturday mornings on a dock off the Embarcadero.

Not sure I'd venture from the dock on this tub, but
apparently it's a working boat.

The Midway looms over Seaport Village and the fishing fleet.

The historic Star of India is docked at the foot of Ash Street.

A Southwest flight comes into Lindbergh Field, America's busiest one-runway
airport. It is startlingly close to downtown.

Another Southwest flight. That's Bankers' Hill in the background.

Here we are along Harbor Island, a T-shaped artificial island filled with hotels and restaurants.
Marinas for pleasure craft can be seen on the far side.

Naval Air Station North Island occupies
the northernmost point of Coronado.

One of Harbor Island's hotels.

Another view of Harbor Island, which is quite narrow at this point.

A replica of the famous racing yacht America sales past the half-dome hangars
of Naval Air Station North Island. 

A replica of a 16th-century Spanish ship cruises the bay. 

The Sally Ride, a Scripps Institution of Oceanography research vessel, is docked on Point Loma.

Cormorants and California sea lions enjoy the sun on a floating dock off Point Loma.

There's also a submarine base on Point Loma. Most of this vessel is underwater even at the dock.

A woman aboard our boat waves at people on a "Seal" boat, a land-and-sea bus-boat
that takes people out to see the sea lions (not seals!). Jane and I did that tour once.

A Sigorsky helecopter sits with other aircraft at Naval Air Station North Island.

The Henry J. Kaiser is an oiler, a ship that refuels other ships at sea.

The semester-at-sea ship World Odyssey is docked where cruise ships usually come in.

   

That's Point Loma in the distance as we headed back
to the dock. We could also see hills in Mexico during the
tour.